The anti-ageing industry is worth billions of dollars globally, and a significant portion of that is marketing to insecurity rather than evidence. As a dermatologist, I find this frustrating — because there are genuinely effective treatments available, and they get lost in the noise.
This is an honest assessment of what has clinical evidence, what the caveats are, and what we use at Pranava.
The Foundation: Retinoids and SPF
Before any procedure is discussed, I want to know if the patient uses a retinoid and an SPF 50+. These two interventions have the most robust evidence base in anti-ageing dermatology.
**Retinoids** (tretinoin being the gold standard, with over-the-counter adapalene being a reasonable first step) stimulate collagen synthesis, increase epidermal turnover, and reduce fine lines. They are not overnight solutions — meaningful results appear at 12–16 weeks and continue to improve with sustained use.
**SPF** is not preventive — in an unprotected person who has already accumulated UV damage, adding SPF now still visibly improves the skin over 12 months by halting further degradation. Every study on photoageing confirms this.
Injectable Treatments with Evidence
Botulinum Toxin
The most studied aesthetic injectable in existence. When administered by a physician with anatomical knowledge, it reduces dynamic lines (crow's feet, forehead, glabellar) safely and predictably. Results last 3–6 months. The key is conservative dosing that maintains natural expression.
Hyaluronic Acid Fillers
Effective for volume restoration in the mid-face, tear troughs, and lips. The goal is structural restoration, not augmentation. A skilled injector will use fillers to lift the midface — which addresses jowling and under-eye hollows more effectively than treating those areas directly.
Hyaluronic acid fillers are reversible with hyaluronidase. This is an important safety feature that I prioritise when choosing filler products.
Biostimulators (Sculptra, Radiesse)
These stimulate the body's own collagen production and provide a more gradual, natural result than traditional fillers. Sculptra (PLLA) in particular has excellent long-term data for facial volume restoration.
Energy-Based Devices
**HIFU (High-Intensity Focused Ultrasound)**: Ultherapy and similar devices deliver ultrasound energy to the SMAS layer, stimulating neocollagenesis. Results appear over 3–6 months and last 12–18 months. Evidence is solid for mild to moderate skin laxity.
**Radiofrequency (RF) Microneedling**: Devices like Morpheus8 combine microneedling with RF energy for skin tightening and textural improvement. Excellent safety profile on darker skin tones.
What I Don't Recommend
- "Stem cell facials" and growth factor serums applied topically — molecules too large to penetrate skin
- High-frequency devices sold for home use — insufficient energy to achieve clinical results
- Any procedure promising results in a single session for significant laxity or deep lines
- Permanent fillers — the risk/benefit profile is unacceptable given the availability of excellent reversible options
Medical disclaimer: This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult a qualified dermatologist before beginning any treatment. Full disclaimer.